Talk about remote. As we drove along ever-narrowing roads in the beautiful Tuscan hills, we began to wonder if we’d missed a turning for this hidden rural retreat. Then suddenly it appeared. Turning a corner, the magnificent salmon-pink walls came into view, backdropped against a cobalt-blue sky and surrounded by tall green cypress trees. Villa Lena is a fascinating hybrid of hotel, organic farm and not-for profit artists' colony. Its 19th-century outhouses have been carefully renovated to create 18 rooms plus 5 apartments and 2 villas dotted across the 500-hectare wooded estate, with spectacular views in all directions.
Guests share the space with artists-in-residence, who stay here for a month-long creative retreat, and in return lead diverse talks and workshops. The main pool and Osteria San Michele restaurant are the heart of everything, a place to all come together and share stories over farm-to-table meals. We loved being swept up in the easy boho vibe of the place; you're continually interacting with the ethos of the Villa, joining debates, admiring donated art on the walls, perhaps listening to a candelit performance in the piano room. A rare find.
Highs
- Inspirational workshops and talks with resident creatives, who may be painters, poets, photographers, conceptual artists, designers, botanists, poets, even meditation dancers
- We loved watching the mist rise from the valley during morning stretches on the yoga deck
- Although this is a sociable place, the accommodation is so spread out that it's easy to find peace and privacy if you need it
- Great for families: the Renacchi apartments share a separate pool and playground, and there's a cinema and games room. Bikes to borrow, too
- The Slow Food is an explosion of colour and flavour - there are chefs-in-residence, too
Lows
- Remote. Nothing in walking distance and not for those seeking a buzzing nightlife on holiday
- The children’s splash pool is right next to the main pool and bar area, and excited little ones can get noisy
- Guests in Renacchi apartments, Casetta Bella and Casa Margherita have a 10/20-minute (albeit beautiful) walk to the restaurant, or will need to drive
- Rates are on the higher side but do include some creative workshops
Best time to go
Villa Lena is usually open from mid March though to November or December.
April, early May and October are perfect for experiencing Tuscany without the crowds: think poppies and wildflowers in bloom, T-shirt-in-the-daytime temperatures, as well as hiking and biking excursions. Easter sees lots of special activities, including a Mad Hatter Afternoon Tea Party and Easter Egg Hunts, while October-November are truffle, mushroom and wine-harvest season for foodies (and drinkies). Plus there's a secret Winter Bar with a wood-fired stove, cocktails and a speak-easy vibe.
July and August are great for a relaxing, sunny Tuscan holiday: a breezy hilltop location, with three pools and AC in all bedrooms. And they throw a mean Ferragosto pool party! The shoulder seasons (May-June, Sept) are often booked for retreats and groups, but if you can find availability, don't hesitate.
Our top tips
What we love about Villa Lena is that you can do almost anything - creative workshops, cooking classes, hiking, biking, wine-tasting, exploring hilltowns, the list is endless - or absolutely nothing at all, with equal splendour. The long wooded views, the three pools (one of them heated), the fabulous local food, the breezy hilltop location and the natural peace all lend themselves to lazy days; but when wanderlust hits you, hotspots like Pisa, San Gimignano, Volterra and Florence are an hour away by car.
Plus you can choose almost any type of accommodation, from a double room near the main restaurant and pool, to a 5-bedroom villa set in peaceful woodland a short drive away. If you're coming with extended family or friends, Casa Margherita and adjacent Casetta Bella offer a total of 8 bedrooms with their own pool.
Top tip: when you book, ask what workshops are on, and reserve in advance if you like the sound of any.
- Boutique Country Estate
- 25 rooms, apartments & houses
- On-site restaurant; houses have kitchens
- All ages welcome
- Closed: Dec-mid March
- Heated Pool
- Spa Treatments
- Beach nearby
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Car recommended
- Parking
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
- Bicycles Available
Rooms
Villa Lena’s beautifully simple accommodation is bright, cool and airy: perfect for siestas once Tuscany’s summer heat kicks in. There are artistic touches everywhere, with carefully chosen art hanging on the walls, and small additions that bring interest to otherwise modest interiors: ours had an old typewriter, an Oriental room screen and tiny pops of colour throughout.
The handsome San Michele Large Superiors are great value, with views across the valley and comfortable furniture to make guests feel at home, plus space for an extra bed if you're bringing the little ones. If you'd prefer a little extra space, the Fattoria rooms are housed in a former stable block and have lovely beamed-ceilings, exposed stonework and big French windows.
Families with older kids love the Renacchi apartments (choose from 2 or 3 bedrooms), which are a 10-minute stroll from the main house, and perfect for dipping in and out of Villa Lena’s social side. The building has its own pool, plus a playground and lots of space to run around. Or, for ultimate privacy, there's couple's bolthole Cassetta dell'Amore beside the main house, Casetta Bella, a 3-bedroom house set 15 minutes' walk from the main property, with it's own patio area and pool shared with the larger 5-bedroom Casa Margherita (4 bedrooms are ensuite), which has a full kitchen and separate living area.
Features include:
- Air conditioning
- Fan
- Hairdryer
- Iron
- Minibar
- Mosquito net
- WiFi
Eating
The food at Villa Lena's restaurant Osteria San Michele is beautifully fresh and full of flavour. The à la carte menu is designed around organic and seasonal produce grown in the on-site vegetable garden. Everything is distinctly Italian and traditionally Tuscan. Our mushroom risotto flan starter was melt-in-the-mouth delicious, but it was the homemade pasta that really stood out. Light and fresh, a simple ricotta ravioli tasted even better when laced with butter, sage and parmigiano. Reservations here are recommended to avoid missing out.
Breakfast is a buffet of cold meats and cheeses, fresh bread and cakes. For a supplementary cost, guests can order from a small menu of cooked breakfasts. Lunches are available from the restaurant's à la carte menu, or lighter bites, cocktails and snacks are served up at the San Michele pool bar; dinner and breakfast are eaten in the light and airy restaurant, which overlooks rolling Tuscan hills. If you're staying in the apartments, you'll find the kitchenettes useful for whipping up lunches or snacks. And both Casetta Bella and Casa Margherita have full kitchens.
Features include:
- Bar
- Coffee maker
- Communal dining
- Kids' meals
- Lunch by arrangement
- Organic produce
- Vegetarian options
Activities
- You can come here to rest, to create or to explore Tuscany: it's like three holidays rolled into one
- Book a creative workshop with the artists in residence - including ceramics, painting, songwriting, writing
- We particularly enjoyed the woodland poetry readings, mask-making sessions and fresh floral potions
- Join a morning or evening guided yoga session on the beautiful shaded pavilion, with its long views over rolling hills
- The hotel works with an external massage therapist, if you need help relaxing completely
- Borrow a mountain bike to explore, or join the 1.5-hour guided hike that takes guests to secret corners of this beautiful estate and through the kitchen gardens
- Walk up to the abandoned village of Toiano: eerily quiet (bar the occasional cat), with spectacular views, it's 20 mins away along shady lanes lined with wild flowers in spring and blackberries in late summer
- Spend an afternoon wine-tasting, join a cocktail-making evening in San Michele’s bar, or day-trip to nearby vineyards
- Explore three gems of northern Tuscany: iconic Pisa, medieval San Gimignano and under-rated Volterra, all within an hour's drive
- Florence is not much further, if you want the full Renaissance art and history experience
- October-November is truffle-hunting season; search with the expert dogs, then take home what you find - or have it whipped up into pasta dishes by the resident chef, and served with Villa Lena's own wines
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Art classes
- Cycling
- Hiking
- Historical sites
- Hot tub
- Spa treatments
- Truffle hunting
- Wine tasting
- Yoga
Kids
All ages are well catered for at Villa Lena, with under-3s staying for free. A shallow toddler pool, playground and cabinet with toys and colouring books keeps little ones entertained, while older children will love the cinema room with DVDs and access to Disney+. A long way from anywhere, there’s not much within walking distance to explore. But with more than enough space for all ages to run around in, and creative workshops such as pasta making and flower printing with gardener, Paul, they certainly won’t get bored.
Best for:
Babies (0-1 years), Toddlers (1-4 years), Children (4-12 years)
Family friendly accommodation:
Close to the main pool, splash pool and restaurant, the San Michele rooms (sleeping 3-4) are well-suited to families with young kids. If you want more space, we’d recommend the 2- or 3-bedroom Renacchi apartments, 10 mins' walk from the main restaurant, which share their own pool and playground. Larger family groups can book either Casetta Bella, a 3-bedroom self-contained house (doubles or twins as you prefer) with a kitchen, living area, and patio; or the larger Casa Margherita which has 5 bedrooms (4 can be twins), plus a full kitchen, dining, living, and patio. Both of these share a private pool and kids' playground, and would work brilliantly as an 8-bedroom mini-estate for several families travelling together.
Cots Available, Family Rooms
Babysitting:
On request
Baby equipment:
- Baby cots can be provided for all rooms
- High chairs
Remember baby and child equipment may be limited or need pre-booking
Children's meals:
A children’s menu includes simple meals such as tomato and basil pasta, or grilled chicken and chips. And gelato (of course)!
Kids Activities on site:
- 500 acres of estate to explore
- Splash pool for little ones
- Two additional pools
- Games room with snooker table, table tennis, and table football
- Cinema room
- Toys, books, and art and craft materials
- Creative workshops and sessions include painting, ceramics, cookie decorating, flower arranging
- Small playground
- Bikes to borrow
Kids Activities nearby:
- Sample world-famous gelato at Gelateria Dondoli in San Gimignano’s Piazza della Cisterna
- Visit Amedei chocolate factory for a guided tasting tour!
Families Should Know:
The pools aren\'t fenced. The estate begs to be explored, but we were warned to take particular care with little ones as wildlife (including wild boars) come out at night
Distances:
- Airport: 45-minute drive (Pisa)
- Hospital: 20-minute drive
- Shop: 15-minute drive
For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection
Location
Reached via roads barely on the map (though our satnav did get us there), Villa Lena feels a long way from anywhere. And yet, while you’ll need a car to reach it, many of the region’s big hitters, including Florence, Siena, San Gimignano and Lucca, are under 2 hours’ drive, making day-trips possible.
By Air:
Pisa Airport (45km) is a 45-minute drive, and Florence Airport (63km) is just over an hour.
From the Airport:
Villa Lena offers transfers but we'd recommend you hire a car so you can explore the region.
Detailed directions will be sent when you book through i-escape.
Airports:
- Pisa Galileo 45.0 km PSA
- Florence 63.0 km FLR
Other:
- Beach 60.0 km
- Shops 0.0 km
- Restaurant 0.0 km
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Our guests' ratings...
Based on 1 independent review from i-escape guests