There are some places where, within minutes of arrival, you know you've struck gold. This is one. After following a small country lane into olive-speckled hills outside Alghero, we rolled up the drive and, as if by magic, the gate slid open. Pier Paolo was waiting on the flower-fringed lawn, along with his playful pooch Laccio and purring cats Gigi and Minou, to show us into our spotless rooms. Within minutes, we felt completely at home, relaxing on deckchairs with chilled vermentino from the refreshingly priced honesty bar, while we plotted seafood dinners in Alghero and secluded swims on Stintino's white-sand beaches.
Having moved here in 2009, Pier Paolo and his partner Carlo spent 5 years gutting and rebuilding the outhouse, transforming it into 2 small but perfectly formed double bedrooms, with a shared kitchen-diner and pretty gardens out front. Comfy kingsize beds, deluge showers and double-glazed French windows ensure you wash and sleep well. Pier Paolo whisks up delicious breakfasts on the terrace, then hands you a stylishly striped beach bag with a zipped cooler, orange towels and a parasol. You couldn't be in better hands.
Highs
- Your hosts are generous to a fault, and full of local insights (Pier Paolo's day job is organising group tours)
- Pier Paolo makes one of the best breakfasts we've had in Sardinia
- A lovely rural setting, yet only 4km from Alghero and its beaches - you could even cycle there
- Alghero's historic honey-stoned centre, hugged by sea walls, is one of the Med's unsung jewels
- Perfect for a couple on a budget; even better for 2 couples travelling together
Lows
- You could feel quite cosy with the other guests: terrace, lawn and kitchen are shared
- No kids, unless taking the 2 rooms together (note that both are double-bedded)
- No pool, though the beach is only 5km away
Best time to go
Our top tips
- Boutique B&B
- 2 rooms
- Breakfast only
- Welcome if taking both rooms
- Open all year
- Pool
- Spa Treatments
- Beach nearby
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Car recommended
- Parking
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
- Bicycles Available
- Laundry room
- Electric car charger
Rooms
Both bedrooms are smallish, but serve their purpose well. Expect comfy mattresses, silky linens, good bedside lights and double-glazed French windows which shut out any nocturnal barking. There's A/C, plus the high pitched roof is well insulated and sliding mosquito nets allow for through drafts if you prefer (and you don't mind the dawn light creeping in too). Pier Paolo salvaged the original doors and reused them as frames for a quartet of sun-bleached roof tiles or ancient iron keys - an artful touch, we thought.
Ensuite bathrooms have deluge showers, lovely gels, towelling robes and, for a dash of designer humour, an oversized lightbulb hanging from a thick red cord.
Both rooms - there's nothing to choose between them - open onto the terrace and garden, with their own bamboo armchairs and breakfast table. The shared guest kitchen is between them, so you won't hear any neighbour noise.
Features include:
- Air conditioning
- Bathrobes
- Beach towels
- Central heating
- Hairdryer
- Mosquito net
- Safe box
- Toiletries
- WiFi
Eating
Pier Paolo's breakfast is a highlight of any stay here. He lays out a wonderful spread on linen tablecloths in the garden, much of it homemade, including his own blended juice of the day (ours was carrot, pineapple, apple and ginger - a great pick-me-up), his mother's cookies, Carlo's juicy lemon drizzle cake, and marmalade from their bitter orange tree. There's local ham and pecorino, treacly coffee served in espresso pots and whatever else takes their gourmet fancy. Don't plan to rush off.
For dinner, they can recommend restaurants in Alghero to suit most budgets and flavours, from novel pizzas (think gorgonzola and pear) at La Botteghina, to authentic Sardinian seafood at Trattoria Da Mirko.
Features include:
- Breakfast
- Honesty bar
Activities
- Alghero is one of Sardinia's loveliest towns, with Siracusa-esque sea walls enclosing cobbled lanes and handsome pastel houses; there are churches, boutiques, gelaterie and superb Catalan-influenced seafood
- Boat excursions take you across the pine-fringed bay of Porto Conte to the sea caves and sheer rock stacks of Capo Caccia; the best is the Andrea Jensen - a wooden ketch with real sailing, great lunches and dolphin sightings
- Fine sandy beaches stretch west and south, or drive up to the Stintino peninsula for stunning white sands: La Pelosa is the pin-up (turquoise shallows and bronzed crowds), Rena Maiore near Biancareddu offers cliff-backed solitude (ask Pier Paolo for directions)
- Hike up 316-metre Mt. Timidone, an hour's marked trail from Le Prigionette park gate (small entrance fee), looking out for mouflons, albino donkeys and griffon vultures; or the macchia-covered hills above the ghost silver-mining village of Argentiera (get the Rother guidebook)
- Taste crisp Vermentino wines at Sella e Mosca (5pm daily, free tour, small tasting fee), or ask Pier Paolo to fix you up with a more personalised experience at a smaller cantina
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Boat trips
- Cycling
- Hiking
- Historical sites
- Horse riding
- Private guided tours
- Sailing
- Shopping / markets
- Snorkelling
- Swimming
- Windsurfing
- Wine tasting
Kids
Children are only accepted if you take both rooms, and as both are double-bedded that's not ideal. But for a couple with an older child, or 2 well-behaved children who are happy to share a double bed, it's not a bad option. You get free run of the small kitchen, a supply of beach towels and parasols, plus an adorable dog and cats to pet. But there's no pool.
For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection
Location
B&B Kapi Country is set 4km outside the coastal town of Alghero in northwest Sardinia. It's 2 hours west of Olbia and 3 hours north of Cagliari.
By Air:
Ideally, fly into Alghero (the airport is just 14km away, but flights are limited); otherwise into Olbia or Cagliari.
From the Airport
You could take a taxi from Alghero, but you'll probably need transport while you're here, so it's best to hire a car from the airport (see our car rental recommendations). You can park safely inside the gated drive, though be aware that the driveway is steep.
By Ferry:
Sardinia is served by car ferries coming from Italy (Genoa, Livorno, Rome - Civitavecchia, Naples, Palermo etc), and also from France (Marseille and Corsica). The latter arrive in Porto Torres which is just 50km / 50 mins' drive from the B&B.
Airports:
- Alghero (Fertilia) 14.0 km AHO
- Olbia 140.0 km OLB
Other:
- Beach 5.0 km
- Shops 4.0 km
- Restaurant 4.0 km
Need flights?
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