Batu Batu

Pulau Tengah, Johor, Tioman & East Coast, Malaysia
Book from GBP Book from £204 per night

A private-island eco-resort ringed by 8 white-sand beaches and unspoilt coral; ideal for relaxed romance, diving and family stays

A private-island eco-resort ringed by 8 white-sand beaches and unspoilt coral; ideal for relaxed romance, diving and family stays

Sunlight danced on the waves as we sped across the South China Sea, weaving around wooden fishing boats and away from the bustling port of Mersing in Johor province. Stepping off the boat at our destination 20 minutes later, we were awe-struck by the dazzling blue of the shallows, the pure white of the sand and the deep green of the jungle; put simply, Pulau Tengah (‘Middle Island’) is as close to paradise as we’d ever come.

Hugging a stretch of the 3km coastline, between thriving coral reefs and swaying coconut palms, Batu Batu is the only resort on the otherwise uninhabited island. Its 22 traditional Malay villas were built by local carpenters and are quietly luxurious, with four-poster beds, annexes for children, and huge tubs. But the vibe throughout is relaxed, and as we explored, we saw kids playing in the infinity pool while couples lingered over cocktails in the bar.

We spent our time immersed in nature, which is taken very seriously here: profits are used to fund their own conservation programme committed to protecting the fragile environment. Help release turtle hatchlings into the surf; scuba-dive sustainably with the on-site PADI school; feast on fresh picks from the organic food garden; or simply sun yourself on a near-deserted beach. This is a paradise escape, but in a considered way.

Highs

    • Barefoot luxury in a truly unspoilt setting on Pulau Tengah
    • Committed to protecting the island's natural beauty through the Tengah Island Conservation, a non-profit dedicated to the research, rehabilitation and regeneration of the Mersing Marine Park
    • Delicious, daily-changing meals in the restaurant, some using ingredients grown on the island
    • A huge array of activities (paddle boarding, scuba diving, PADI courses, jungle walks, kayaking, spa treatments), making it great for families as well as couples
    • Staff go above and beyond, always with huge smiles

Lows

    • A trek to get here (a 3-5 hour drive from Singapore or Kuala Lumpur, followed by a boat transfer), but oh-so worth it
    • Full pre-payment is required, and rates don't include any food (you'll need to buy a separate meal plan), but it's still good value
    • WiFi is limited to some communal areas, although we enjoyed the digital detox
    • There are mozzies and sandflies, plus occasional jellyfish in the sea (you can buy a special jellyfish repellent)
    • It's a 15-minute walk from the furthest villas to the pool and restaurant

Best time to go

The dry season runs from March to October. Conveniently, this coincides with the European summer, making it popular with families seeking a tropical getaway in the school holidays. We visited in August, when the weather was hot and sunny and the sea delightfully warm - though we did experience one very impressive tropical thunderstorm. December to February is the monsoon season, with heavy rain and strong winds; these months are not suitable for diving, and the diving season normally ends mid November.

Our top tips

This is a great place to learn to dive. The entry-level PADI qualification is very reasonably priced, and the waters surrounding Batu Batu offer perfect conditions for novices - not too deep (a maximum of 5-7m), with plentiful coral.

Great for...

Beach
Eco
Family
Romantic
Spa
  • Boutique beach resort
  • 22 villas
  • Restaurant & bars (open daily)
  • All ages welcome
  • Open all year
  • Outdoor Pool
  • Spa Treatments
  • On the beach
  • Pet Friendly
  • Disabled Access
  • Car not necessary
  • Parking
  • Restaurants Nearby
  • WiFi
  • Air Conditioning
  • Guest Lounge
  • Terrace
  • Garden
  • Gym
Room:

Rooms

The stilted wooden villas are styled on Malay kampungs and carefully positioned among the trees to afford maximum privacy. All have four-poster beds swathed in mosquito nets, large private balconies, and sprawling bathrooms featuring rainfall showers and huge standalone tubs. Many have children’s annexes with bunk beds, too.

We stayed in a palatial Ocean Villa, which boasted spectacular views across the azure water; the Ocean Deluxe Villas sit in a slightly more elevated position, with an even better vista. The villa felt wonderfully secluded, and we loved listening to the sound of waves crashing in from our enormous terrace. 

Beach Villas are the most popular, each with direct access to Sunrise Beach, though it's useful to note that swimming isn't advisable here because the reef is so close to the shore. Jungle Villas are set slightly further back from the shore, amid lush rainforest.

Poolside Villas have two bedrooms (a double and a twin) and are located directly behind the infinity pool and restaurant, so they lack the views of the other villas. We loved their huge verandas with sofas and tables, and their two private outdoor bathrooms (one with a shower, the other with a tub). They also seemed slightly cooler than the other villas due to their thicker roofs (all have air-con), though it's worth noting that they're a little less private.

Features include:

  • Bathrobes
  • Coffee / tea making
  • Hairdryer
  • Mosquito net
  • Safe box

Eating

You won't go hungry here. Meals are a relaxed affair, served in an airy, open-sided pavilion nestled between two large stones (‘batu’ in Malay, hence the resort’s name). Tables look out over the sea to neighbouring Pulau Besar (‘Big Island’).

At breakfast, the buffet table (carved from a cengal tree felled in the 1970s) groans under the weight of fresh fruit, yoghurts, cereal, and freshly baked pastries and bread. There are also numerous cooked options, all made to order; tucking into fluffy pancakes or buttery scrambled eggs as the sun rose made a wonderful start to our mornings. Do try the Indian and Malaysian options too - we thought the poori with lamb curry was exceptional, as was the thosai (Malaysian version of dosa) with fish curry. 

The two-course lunches and three-course dinners feature a daily changing menu of local and Western dishes. You might get rack of lamb or ribeye steak, but highlights for us were grilled squid with spicy sambal, and a slow-cooked beef rendang made with the island’s own coconut milk and lemongrass. Puddings were all excellent too - particularly the mango ice cream.

Note that no meals are included in the rates, so you'll need to purchase a meal plan which covers breakfast, lunch and dinner. Drinks and side dishes are charged as extra, as are cocktails from the sea-facing bar and laid-back beach bar. This being a Muslim country, expect high alcohol prices due to high taxes.

Features include:

  • Bar
  • Restaurant
Eating:
Activity:

Activities

  • Go diving - the corals and marine life are spectacular. The dive school caters for all levels, with a PADI entry-level course, an open-water course and an advanced 'Divemaster' course
  • Other water-based activities on offer include snorkelling, kayaking, paddle boarding, and boat trips to neighbouring islands
  • Go for a stroll around the island. There are 2 self-guided walking routes (each around an hour), taking in the jungle interior and various lookout points with views over the sea to neighbouring islands
  • Discover Pulau Tengah’s 8 beaches (you can try a different one every day!). Our favourites were Angsana and Sunset in the north
  • Tour the island’s conservation centre and learn about efforts to protect green and hawksbill turtles. Ask to be alerted if there are hatchlings ready to be released during your stay
  • Unwind in the spa. There are numerous treatments on offer, including a coffee body scrub and a hot-stone massage (you’ll need to book in advance)

Activities on site or nearby include:

  • Birdwatching
  • Boat trips
  • Hiking
  • Kayaking
  • Plantlife / flora
  • Sailing
  • Scuba diving
  • Scuba diving courses
  • Snorkelling
  • Spa treatments
  • SUP
  • Swimming
  • Well being
  • Wildlife

Kids

This is a paradise for outdoorsy kids and a popular choice with families in the school holidays. As well as the beaches and watersports, there's an unstaffed playhouse, the chance to release turtle hatchlings, and an education centre where kids can learn about the local environment.

Best for:

Babies (0-1 years), Children (4-12 years), Teens (over 12)

Family friendly accommodation:

The one-bed villas have children's annexes attached to the main bedroom, with bunk beds for children; the most popular are the Beach Villas, as they're located near the pool and restaurant. There are also two Poolside Villas with two bedrooms (a double and a twin) and a covered veranda with a living area. All villas can accommodate baby cots, and all except the Poolside Villas have daybeds which can be made up for additional guests, meaning they can sleep 3-5 people in total.

Kids Activities on site:

  • Kids diving courses (ages 8+)
  • Snorkelling (supplied-air snorkelling is available for ages 5-7)
  • Kayaking
  • Paddle boarding
  • Turtle conservation-centre tours, plus the opportunity to help release hatchlings
  • Playhouse (unsupervised) with toys and games
  • Kids films on TVs
  • Beach volleyball

Families Should Know:

Some Ocean and Jungle Villas are accessed via lots of steps, which may not be suitable for little ones. There are also a few creepy-crawlies and mosquitoes (coils and nets are provided in the villas), plus very occasionally jellyfish in the sea about 2-3 times a year (you can purchase jellyfish sunscreen if you are very concerned about this)

Distances:

  • Airport: 2 hours (Johor Bahru), 3 hours (Singapore) or 5 hours (Kuala Lumpur), then a 20-minute boat transfer
  • Shop: 20-minute boat transfer
  • Hospital: 20-minute boat transfer then a 15-minute drive
Kid Friendly:

Location

Batu Batu is located on the small island of Pulau Tengah, 16km off the southeast coast of Malaysia. It's a 20-minute speedboat ride from the mainland town of Mersing.

By Air:
Fly to Singapore (a 3-4 hour drive) or Kuala Lumpur (a 4-5 hour drive). Both are major air hubs served by numerous airlines. You can also fly to Johor Senai International, 2 hours away, though it only receives flights from within Malaysia and other southeast Asian countries.

From the Airport:
Batu Batu can provide contacts for reputable transfer companies for the journey from Singapore or Kuala Lumpur to Mersing. Once you reach Mersing, there are 1-3 scheduled boat transfers to the island (extra charge) each day, depending on resort occupancy and tides; private transfers can also be arranged. Please note: Boat scheduling is restricted by the tide levels at the river mouth of Mersing, which changes every day. As such, you can request to know the boat schedules before you make your booking. 

If you prefer to self-drive (see our car rental suggestions), there are several secure car parks close to the boat jetty in Mersing.

Airports:

  • Singapore Changi 130.0 km SIN
  • Kuala Lumpur 345.0 km KUL

Other:

  • Beach 0.1 km
  • Shops 16.0 km
  • Restaurant 16.0 km

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Our guests' ratings...

Based on 6 independent reviews from i-escape guests

10/10
Room
9/10
Food
10/10
Service
9/10
Value
10/10
Overall

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Rates for Batu Batu

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